Farro in Pune is a refreshingly unpretentious dining experience with bold flavours

India’s food scene is in an exciting phase—dynamic, experimental, and constantly evolving. Yet, in all the intellectualising and nostalgia-driven storytelling, we sometimes forget that food, at its core, is meant to be enjoyed. A little backstory? Sure. A nod to tradition? Lovely. But ultimately, what we crave is a satisfying meal—one that speaks for itself without drowning in its own narrative.

The interior
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Special Arrangement

Chef Vardhan
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Special Arrangement

That is precisely what I found at Farro, a refreshingly unpretentious new eatery in Pune’s Koregaon Park (which is only open for dinner). No elaborate backstory, no excessive hand-holding. A collaboration between Chef Vardaan Marwah and Sip & Savour Co., founded by Aman Talreja, Chef Suvir Saran, and Vardaan, Farro is a space where artistry, flavour, and hospitality come together seamlessly. Named after the ancient grain khapli (emmer wheat), the menu is a nod to its history and introduction to India.

The space

Designed by Amrita Ravi, Farro’s interiors balance heritage with contemporary flair. Beige-toned walls, curvilinear forms, and lime-plastered surfaces create a warm, tactile experience, complemented by teak wood, terracotta, and lush greenery. There is a striking feature wall, adorned with handmade clay cups and murals by Za Works. A lo-fi and jazz playlist completes the sensory atmosphere.

The food

Fresh from a week-long wedding celebration (and slightly jet-lagged), Chef Vardaan kept things simple yet compelling. The thirty-layer truffle latke was a standout—a masterful interplay of textures, made from potato and requiring 48 hours to prepare. The buff manti (Turkish dumplings) were light yet flavourful, while the lamb kefta was delicate but satisfying.

The thirty-layer truffle latke
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Special Arrangement

The keema pao, inspired by Vardaan’s grandmother’s recipe, was the star—a Mumbai staple reimagined with a near-shakshouka consistency, hearty yet non-greasy. In contrast, the Mapusa Market prawn balchao felt unnecessary, especially following the keema pao.

The buff manti
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Special Arrangement

Pashtun kebab
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Special Arrangement

With 40 items, the menu skirts the line between à la carte and a tasting menu. Co-owner Aman acknowledges this: “We Indians love options. While we considered a tasting menu, Pune isn’t quite ready for it. We also kept the interiors unintimidating—Pune’s vibe is casual, so this was our way of easing diners into something new.”

Evolving dining scene

The city’s growing affluence and youthful demographic have fuelled its restaurant boom. As per the 2011 Census, Pune’s population stood at 3.12 million, and is currently at 4.57 million. According to the India Food Services Report 2024 by the National Restaurants Association of India (NRAI), 71% of restaurant-goers are aged between 21 and 40.

Chef Vardaan sums it up: “The goal was to keep the menu fuss-free, flavour-forward, and worth the price. There’s still room for improvement, but the intent is honest.”

The cocktails

I tried three of the eleven on the menu. The Crown Jewel – rich and spiced, this vodka-based drink infuses bergamot tea, cardamom, vanilla, and caramel, paying tribute to British trade routes. The Olive Branch – a bold yet refreshing mix of Campari, Martini Rosso, and lemon-olive soda, inspired by the harmony of ancient Tarquinia’s truce. And, the Sone Ki Chidiya – an overly sweet blend of coconut gin, kokum, tamarind, mango, sweet lime, saffron, and liqueur — a little too much on the palate.

The Alchemist
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Special Arrangement

The desserts

I dug into three desserts, starting with the pistachio tiramisu. It was creamy, nutty, and indulgent, though it could have used more espresso depth. The strawberry mithai pudding, a fusion of Indian dessert traditions with fresh berry brightness, leaning slightly too sweet. And the xocolatl – a deep, intense chocolate experience, perfectly bitter yet perhaps too rich for some.

Could Farro change how diners in Pune embrace elevated cuisine? There is promise. With bold flavours, a nuanced approach, and a willingness to challenge the city’s palate, Farro could be the start of something new.

A meal for two at Farro is ₹3,500 plus taxes for two